Written by and Photos by Harry Shelswell. Posted in Rides
I’ve spent the last six years travelling the world via motorbike. When I left home in the south of England, I had no idea of where it would lead me. With a one-way ticket to India, I’d figure it out from there. Being an extreme sports and motorbike fanatic, some would say it was inevitable I’d end up travelling the world this way. But after a while, I started seeking something outside of the usual road trips—something you aren’t likely to find on a tour or in a magazine article… the next level.
Indonesia was a country that had never been high on my must-see list, but it turned out to be the best place I ever visited. I landed in Bali, found a Kawasaki KLX150, and set off looking for any dense forests, jungles and anything that looked like it would be fun. However, after locating one jungle trail, the deeper I got into it the more I began to panic. Although I was enjoying every minute of the experience, fear got the best of me and I decided to head back to base. It was a pattern I’d repeat several times before re-evaluating my approach.
Realizing I needed a better plan, I decided to get a newer and more reliable bike and do an east-to-west trip on as many rural trails as I could locate. I found a 2017 Honda CRF150, had it bored out to 200ccs and rode it for the duration of the four-month trip. I packed only a first aid kit, waterproof jacket, and a few basic tools along with a compass in the tank bag in case my phone died. Then, using Google Earth I looked for any hint of jungle or mountain trails, jotting them down for a rough path to follow, and off I went.
I set off looking for any dense forests, jungles and anything that looked like it would be fun.
The newer bike and basic baggage were far better suited for this kind of travel. For the duration, I used Geo Tracker to record my route in case I needed to backtrack and find a different way out, which happened with regularity.
The first few days I went as far as I could, riding tracks I found on Google Earth, but it was difficult going. However, because I’d started in Bali, I was never more than a few hours away from civilization—but this didn’t mean it was particularly safe. At one point, I slipped down a wet jungle embankment and trapped my leg under the bike; it took hours to get free, but not before it started raining heavily and grew dark. I remember laying there with rain on my face, laughing because as crazy as this was, it was exactly what I wanted, and I felt alive. I got into jams that made me think it was all a bad idea, but I kept on going anyway. The more I pushed on, the more I began to let go of control, and the more I started to just go with it and see what would happen next.
“When you visualize the things you want in life, you only see the coincidences, but let go of all control and that’s when the real magic happens.”—Alan Watts
Eventually, this mindset became my way of travelling. I learned to completely let go of any fear, and by doing this, everything that followed, and I mean EVERYTHING, went in a way I could never have imagined. I had a rough idea every day of where I wanted to end up, but everything in between is where I practiced this philosophy.
Lost in jungle.
The more I travelled in this way, the more it became my way of life. There were times where suddenly, I would get this feeling to travel in a completely different direction, and it never let me down. From places I found, people I met and things I saw—everything that happened was a direct result of letting go and trusting life to take care of the details. By expecting nothing, I received everything. I realized that you have to have a dream, you have to have a goal, but how you get there is best left for life to decide. “If you don’t know where you’re going, then any road will take you there.”
After arriving in Java, I managed to tap into a network of trails until I came to a roadblock guarded by the local military. Beyond the roadblock, I could see the signs of an unbelievable adventure, so I pushed past my frustration to find a way through. I communicated using Google Translate and I’m not sure how I managed it, but I convinced the guards to let me pass. I showed them pictures of my trip and explained what I was doing here, they looked at each other, laughed and gave me a pat on the back before letting me pass. It was the biggest relief and the best outcome, because those trails were some of the best I’d ever encountered. I didn’t see another soul for a long time and the path constantly forked, making tracking difficult. The trails swooped in and out of the oceanfront and I couldn’t stop laughing the entire time. At one point a group of monkeys ran next to me jumping around in the trees—it all felt quite surreal. I completely zoned out and it was pure bliss.
Sunrise in the mountains at our Bali sunrise camp.
I continued travelling in this way to Jogjakarta; as I passed through a small village near Tumpak Sewu Lumajang, I bumped into a group of local riders advertising an enduro event sponsored by Honda. The locals said they would let me ride with their team. Although I was extremely tired I couldn’t pass up the opportunity, so I joined them. The event had a large stage, music and hundreds of local riders, I was the only westerner and when I took my helmet off, they seemed shocked. The ride was incredible, weaving in and out of jungles and forests with great obstacles along the way.
Enjoy an enduro event sponsored by Honda with a group of local riders.
After saying goodbye to the team, I continued on to Malang, where I made friends with another great guy, Uphi. He owned a company called Moto East Java, and let me ride with his groups as their photographer, showing me some secret trails as well.
Uphi was one of the nicest people I’ve ever met. We spent time together, doing different trails on different days, and meeting the people who lived along these tracks. The locals seemed amused that I was doing this off-road trip, and a large portion of them were enduro fans. Uphi gave me some local knowledge on the next leg of my trip and pointed me in the right direction to hit some extreme trails. He said I was crazy to do this alone, but was happy to help me.
I continued on until I made it to Jogjakarta, where I decided to return to Bali. By then I was exhausted and the thought of riding all the way back to catch my flight sank in. But, the journey back was the perfect time to reflect. The trusty Honda CRF had been a reliable ride and hadn’t missed a beat. I dropped the oil regularly and changed the sparkplugs and filters, but it was the best bike I could have used, although there were times I wished it had more power. Honda did a great job once again.
Trail heaven.
I barely touched regular roads during that trip to Jogjakarta. The network of off-road trails connecting this country are the most amazing I’ve come across anywhere. Used by jungle hunters, foragers, and other riders, it’s enduro heaven. I’d barely come across another foreigner over four months, and some of the things I came across had likely never been seen by any tourist. Many had been life-changing experiences, to say the least. Sometimes we get in our own way when trying to take control of everything, and I realized the best way to travel is just let go.
“We often kill the potential of a good situation before it’s had chance to unfold. Due to anxiety and the urge to control everything, we create our own depression.”—Harry Shelswell
If you are considering a similar trip to a foreign land, keep the following in mind: Always check weather conditions before departure; apply the gas-water-air rule (fuel, water, tires); have a clear map in your head of where you are going including stops; pack some food; and don’t forget the camera.
Harry Shelswell left home in search of adventure. Expecting to be gone for a few months, every time one trip was coming to a close a new one would spring into view. “I’ve travelled through eight countries so far. Rather than blasting through places I’ve learned to take my time to explore every nook and cranny. By travelling in this way, I gain a deeper understanding of the cultures and landscapes. And when I’m not on a bike I’m working as a photographer—combining two of my life’s passions as I get involved with many opportunities around the globe—capturing life in unique ways in an attempt to share the world as I see it.” Instagram @harry_shelswell.
